While breakfast by nature is the earliest meal of the day, avoiding crowds at FuHang DouJiang (阜杭豆漿) will have you up with the sparrows for this very popular Taipei breakfast restaurant.
By Stuart Hill
FuHang DouJiang (阜杭豆漿) is one of those places you wish you could keep to yourself. The food is great, the location very easy to find, yet if it wasn’t for all those other customers, it would be a great place to have a relaxing Chinese/Taiwanese-style breakfast ALL BY YOURSELF.
Alas, one of Taipei’s worst kept secrets is on the verge of becoming a Taipei event more than breakfast, given the huge numbers of people who line up for the pleasure of enjoying FuHang DouJiang’s breakfast pastries and soy milk.
Just a short walk from ShanDaoSi (善導寺) MRT station, the store can be found on the second floor of a small food court located off ZhongXiao East Road (忠孝東路) in the HuaShan Market (華山市場) building (See address below).
To put their well-deserved success in context, FuHang Soy Milk is only one of several stores on the second floor premises, but they fully occupy the whole floor during breakfast. Only around 11:45am is it safe for the other vendors to open their stalls.
Crowds tend to be somewhat extreme on the weekends, which are worth avoiding if you can. Even arriving at 7am, on Saturday or Sunday you will be lining up with about 30-40 people ahead of you. At least these days the store manages the crowds by winding the queue down the stairs to the first floor and out onto the street. It used to be that the line snaked among those lucky enough to find a seat.
Yet somehow the food is still rather worth the wait. Like most breakfasts places in Taipei, prices are reasonable. However, FuHang Soy Milk’s small selection of pastries are great. What they do, they do really well. And due to the fact it is located in a food court, it has less of the cramped feeling you get from many ma and pop breakfast places.
Top on the menu are their salty or sweet pastries, or a choice of thick or thin bread-like pastries. Both the thick “hou bing” (厚餅) and the thin “bo bing” (薄餅) with an egg, and with or without an oily bread stick “you tiao” (油條), are something of a specialty.
The pastry is prepared and cooked on the premises, and you can see cooks working in the kitchen behind glass walls while you are waiting to place your order and pay.
In addition to pastries, as the breakfast shop’s name suggests, FuHang Soy Milk also offers soy milk drinks, either salty and sweetened, or unsweetened. Hot or tepid.
All in all, the places is definitely worth visiting at least once, to enjoy the atmosphere of watching your breakfast being prepared and cooked while you wait, for the taste of great breakfast food, and the experience of seeing so many other people enjoying their morning start.
How to get there:
Catch the MRT to ShanDaoSi, Exit 5. The building is next to the exit. However, heading east turn the first corner to the right to find the entrance to the second level of the market. Chances are the line of people will be a sure giveaway.
- English Address: 2F No. 108, ZhongXiao East Road, Section 1
- Chinese Address: 忠孝東路1段108號2樓
Every day 5:30-10:30am (officially). Best before 7:30am on a weekend. Closed every second and fourth Monday of the month.